Kedgeree is either Indian in origin or (according to some sources) a Scottish recipe taken out to India and returned with an Oriental twist. Either way, I have the fondest memories of eating it for a dawn breakfast after a night spent reeling (the dancing kind). This version is a family favourite, though not exactly friendly to the waistline.

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Trout kedgeree

Serves 4

■ 250-300g (9-101⁄2oz) dry basmati rice
■ Boiling water
■ 1 tbsp sunflower oil
■ Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt
■ 4 cooked trout fillets, skinned and deboned
■ 50g (2oz) sultanas
■ 1 bay leaf
■ 100ml (4fl oz) milk
■ 100g (4oz) butter
■ 1 tsp curry powder or to taste (I use medium strength)
■ 1-2 tbsp Mrs Ball’s Peach Chutney
■ 2 tbsp crème fraîche
■ Lemon juice to taste
■ Coriander, chopped
■ 2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered

First, cook the rice. Boil the kettle and heat the sunflower oil in a large, non-stick saucepan with a lid.

Add the dry rice and a large pinch of salt. Stir until coated, then cover the rice with boiling water.

Clap on the lid and move to a low heat. Let it simmer for 15 minutes, then take off the stove, keeping the lid on, and leave until needed (at least 10 minutes).

Now, cook the fish.

Place the fillets in pan with the sultanas, bay leaf, milk and butter, and gently bring to the boil. Let simmer for two minutes, then take off the stove.

Remove the fish and flake it, reserving the milk and sultanas but discarding the bay leaf.

Mix the curry powder, chutney and crème fraîche into the milk, and then pour it over the rice, mixing well.

Gently fold in the fish, taste, and add lemon juice, salt and black pepper if you think it needs it.

Scatter the coriander and eggs on top and serve with mini poppadums, raita (made with yoghurt, a pinch of cumin and chopped mint), and more peach chutney.

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