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This is very easy to do at home and quite delicious served hot as a starter.

Serves 10
■ 100g (31⁄2oz) sea salt
■ 50g (2oz) dark brown sugar
■ 1 side organic salmon, about 2kg
(4lb 6oz) pin-boned and trimmed
■ 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) maple syrup (the
good stuff, not fake)

Start by rubbing the salt and sugar together until well mixed, then pour the mix all over the fillet. Leave it covered in the fridge for eight hours or overnight. Wash the fillet under the cold tap , then pat dry with kitchen paper. Leave for an hour to dry well then cut the fillet into 10 good squares. Place the fish pieces on a trivet and paint them with maple syrup. Either smoke in a hot box-smoker for 20 minutes or improvise: sprinkle oak chippings in a big oven dish and lay the trivet and fish inside. Cover tightly with two layers of foil and place on a medium hob or the barbecue on a lowish heat. The chippings will smoulder, the heat in the box will cook the fish and in 20 minutes or so it will be done. Remove, allow to cool to just warm, and serve with watercress and horseradish cream.